DISCOVERING
SÃO JOÃO FESTIVAL
SÃO JOÃO FESTIVAL
written by Gabriela Molinos
The Saint John’s festival (Festa de São João) is the most important festival of the city of Porto. The most awaited events happen on the night of 23rd of June, where thousands of people come to the city center to pay tribute to Saint John the Baptist, in a party that mixes sacred and profane traditions.
In June 2004, a journalist from The Guardian commented that “Porto’s Festa de São João is one of Europe’s liveliest street festivals, yet it is relatively unknown outside the country”.
The party starts at mid-afternoon of the 23rd of June and usually lasts until the morning of the 24th of June.
The festival now starts appearing one month before the big day. From the very typical exhibition of the São João cascatas, to the festive street ornaments and manjericos, everything starts to take shape around May.

Before I walk through the program of the party, let’s talk about the basics of the party and how the locals celebrate it.
Greeting people with wilting leek and plastic hammers
There are three crucial elements in São João festival in Porto: water, fire and herbs (as they have “magical powers”), the most important being sweet basil, wilting leek and lemon balm.
People use the wilting leek and the plastic hammers to greet complete strangers on their way during the raids. It’s fun and a way to meet complete strangers.
Launching hot air balloons
São João festival was built on the remnants of the pagan celebration of Summer solstice, which symbolized the abundance of crops and fertility, and thus inevitably connected to sun & fire worship. In modern times, that is represented by hot air balloons, fireworks, and even bonfires.
Eating Sardines
According to historians, the typical food of São João festival in Porto used to be roasted lamb with potatoes, bread and hot coffee. However, not so many years so ago man brought sardines left over from another festival, which takes place before São João’s.
Ever since, the grilled sardines are the main dish of the festival, and the way to eat them is on top of a slice of bread and with a glass of Vinho Verde. Enjoy!
The “Cascatas” of Saint John’s Festival
“Cascata” literally means cascade and, during São João festival, they are representations of sceneries where water is strongly present (waterfalls, rivers, etc.). “Cascatas” typically reproduce typical places in Porto and painted clay figures represent people, professions and animals.

On the night of 23rd of June, everyone gets together to celebrate Saint John’s eve. The real amusement is right by the river in a night where the fireworks are just the beginning, the sardines fly from the griller, and hammering is the way to go until the day rises. And the sky lights up with the São João balloons that are launched in to the sky.
In order for you to fully explore city’s party we offer you three options so you can enjoy the night of São João as a local.
Watch the concerts at Avenida dos Aliados
From the several walking routes you can do on the night of São João, all routes culminate in the Ribeira area, where everyone concentrates to watch the fireworks.
The route between Avenida dos Aliados and Ribeira, is one of the most popular routes. You can head up to Avenida dos Aliados to see the concert at 22PM, and then walk back down towards the river to see the fireworks.
Once you start the descent towards Ribeira, you’ll pass by the renewed and charming Rua das Flores. Upon arriving at the Largo de São Domingos, you’ll begin to dive into the huge crowd that focuses along the Garden of Infante Dom Henrique. Then, take a small detour to Rua da Reboleira to make sure that you cross one of the medieval streets of Porto.
Finally, return to Ribeira and find the best place to watch the fireworks. This route is definitely for those who want to mix into the crowd, and is also one of the most scenic walks, since you’ll stroll by several emblematic monuments of the city, starting at the Aliados, and the São Bento train station, Rua das Flores, the Mercado Ferreira Borges, the Palácio da Bolsa and then the beautiful Ribeira.

Eat with the locals at one of the most emblematic neighborhoods of the city
If you prefer to mingle with the locals and skip the concert before the fireworks, the Fontaínhas is the best spot to start the night. Let’s focus on food and great views over the Douro river.
The Fontaínhas are well known for their of São João commemorations in the Alameda. You have everything you need here, starting with a huge supply of festive foods, the sardines, bifanas, the pork belly (barriga), bell peppers and caldo verde.
Once you have dined, it’s time to head to Ribeira. Head towards the upper deck of the Luís I bridge, but follow the path by the Escadas do Codeçal that will take you directly to the lower deck of the bridge. And if all Saints help going down, then São João will also help you out. As you descend the several flights of stairs, you’ll pass through the bowels of Sé’s São João, where the houses sport open doors and use the staircases to grill the first sardines and bell peppers… you’ll probably be invited for a taste! At the end of the staircase, you’ll arrive at Avenida Gustavo Eiffel, and you’ll be facing the Ponte Luís I. Route to Luis I bridge: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BV7fsSQDMrPanHj9J192jBPhaTA5IIqp&usp=sharing
If you’re up for a rather radical move, then cross the Luis I bridge on the lower deck and watch the fireworks from the Cais de Gaia. From here you’ll have one of the most beautiful views of the Douro, with the beautiful Porto as a backdrop. With so many people crossing the bridge at the same time, it’s normal for the bridge to look like a huge swing.

Do walk along the Douro River to Foz
After the fireworks, you can choose to stay in Ribeira dancing and eating all night long, or you can follow the tradition of the city and head towards the Foz. On the way you will find party all over.
On your way along the Douro, you’ll pass by the Cais das Pedras, where there is a lively gathering around stage performances and restaurants grilling the classic sardines. Further down it’s the Tram Museum (Museu do Carro Electrico).
Following your walk along the river, you’ll pass by Rua do Ouro, where after a hundred meters or so you’ll find a short climb that takes you to the Travessa da Boa Morte, which opens to a square named Calçada do Ouro. On your way along the Douro, you can observe the tremendous range of Ponte da Arrábida up close.
You will not have to walk too much until reaching the Jardim do Cálem where many other amusements await you.
At the Jardim do Passeio Alegre, it’s the perfect location to finish a long walk along the Douro river. Enjoy the bailarico music, the paper decorations, the street vendors with the bread with chorizo coming out from the wood stove, and a great diversity of churros.
And, in the morning, as the sun rises, the most adventurous people take a freezing bath on the beaches of Foz and Matosinhos.
On June 24th, it is time to enjoy one of the most beautiful tradition of São João festival in Porto: the annual regatta of rabelo boats (the famous boats that lay quietly by the riverside, and that were used to carry the barrels of Porto wine from the Douro valley vineyards to the Port Wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia.)

Enjoy the party!
Gabriela Molinos
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